Dana Lee’s New Lookbook

(Dana Lee in her studio editing her Lookbook of Polaroids)

For the last few months, I have been bumping into this very striking woman in the elevator where the NY Starworks office is located in Soho. Her name is Dana Lee and she has been incubating a stunning menswear collection for that last 6 months. I’ve also discovered that her name has been uttered in several impressive circles as a Designer to watch this year.

(Zafiro, Dana’s trusty companion found in Costa Rica)

After a few coffee chats in the elevator, I was invited to enter her office to take a peek at the goods myself. Her office vibe is warm, austere, minimalist with antique wood pieces, industrial steel tables, and classic Parker Jotter ballpoint pens. Her Autumn / Winter 2010 collection is a body of work that includes cozy sweaters, strong pants, sturdy plaid shirts, and perfectly cut longjohns — basically, it’ll be the uniform for every hip man with taste that I know in New York right now.

(Sweater from Dana Lee’s AW 2010 collection)

I found myself being asked to be one of the subjects in Dana’s Lookbook. I didn’t object being photographed simply because I love men’s clothes, plus this is the type of collection I imagine girlfriends will snag from their honey’s closet. After visiting her studio, getting shot with an apple on my head, and meeting some creative New York individuals (see Lookbook below), I took a few minutes to ask Dana some questions about her line, her inspirations, and the idea behind producing in America.

(Photographer Jody Rogac shooting Lookbook)

Jauretsi: Congratulations on the latest collection of Dana Lee. Your first collection was a menswear line called A-Z that was picked up by Opening Ceremony and secured a Gen Art Fresh Face nomination in 2007. How do you feel your designing style has evolved over the years now that you have your eponymous label?

Dana Lee: My design style has definitely evolved thematically and quality-wise, partly because of gaining experience and understanding, and partly because of circumstances and resources. When first starting menswear, I was afraid to disclose my name and gender, choosing instead to build brand concepts, designing clothing to fit those brand parameters: A-Z Collection was my first commercial brand. It was based on the concept of celebrating everyday things (basic shapes, ubiquitous fabrics, and amusingly straight forward clothing) to contrast the dark gothic asymmetrical fashion that was becoming prevalent. I approached A-Z as a brand director, choosing styles and fabrics that supported the A-Z theme. It was a fun, timely idea, but after a 5 seasons I began to foresee more limitations than possibilities. At the same time, better fabric and production resources began to accumulate which presented wider aesthetic possibilities, and I also began to gain more confidence in the idea of using a personal name, personal style, and about being a women designing menswear.

Having a namesake label is different in that allows for change and evolution. I’m very excited about that expansiveness and long term potential. Also, working with a small design team (after 4 years of solo management) has evolved the collection in a broader, more stabilized and more saleable direction.

J: I hear you had a wonderful childhood raised on a mountainside. Tell me about how those memories inform your work, and why you chose menswear versus womenswear as a career?

DL: My father was an architect and planner and introduced his kids to the possibility of developing a style and manifesting ideas. We lived in a series of post & beam houses that he hand-built and designed — the first two constructed over a shady overgrown creek. My earliest memories are the sounds and smells of cedar planks being sanded and sawed. Growing up in North Vancouver also provided us forests, ski slopes, oceanfront, and some beautiful rivers and canyons- all within 10 minutes driving. The constant rain and outdoor activities (skiing, hiking, fishing) outfitted our lives and wardrobes with really practical clothing. I wore a lot of casual boyish clothes, and at the same time was very picky and experimental about how those boyish clothes looked. Later in adolescence, my preoccupation shifted more towards international fashion and culture, but as time goes by, I realize more and more how these early Canadian experiences have uniquely influenced my work and values and perhaps led to choosing menswear.

J: Can you share with us your wonderful decision on designing all the clothes in New York City, and producing it with authenticity in US and Canada?

DL: We are a small company and want to create reliable, attainable, yet special clothing. Local production is more expensive but offers easier management, face-to-face communication, quick turnaround, less importation challenges, and most importantly less inventory. In addition, I believe it is important to support local economies and small businesses whenever possible, which is also a pleasure. No doubt, high quality manufacturing can be found overseas, however our current collection range fits beautifully within the realms of classic North American production.

J: What was the inspiration for this particular line called “Favorite Things” and what can we expect as the overall vision of the brand?

DL: The AW10 collection can be traced back to a few single favorite items that permanently reside in our studio: a rare vintage tie made from rustic pheasant feathers, an old pair of Canadian Stanfield’s natural wool long johns, a set of colored enameled plates rescued from the recently-closed Syracuse China Factory, and some fresh rag cotton mittens. I wanted the collection to feel wholesome and eclectic. Forward yet unassuming.

The overall brand vision is to develop fashion and clothing that feels poignant for the moment, yet which can be endeared and worn for seasons to come.

J: Where can one purchase this collection?

DL: SS10 is available exclusively at Opening Ceremony locations. FW10 stock-lists will be confirmed shortly, but will include a wider distribution in USA, Canada, Europe and Japan.

Our current retail community includes Opening Ceremony (exclusive retailer of the SS10 collection), and coming up, some great stores in the US, Canada, Europe, and Japan for this new AW10 collection.

Mat Bushell (Painter and member of Yale Graduate Program)

And now for the Lookbook (just released). Styled by Cory Gromberg, Dana put together a cast of creatives including moi… a real bunch of people who will most likely live in this clothes for real.

Colin Tunstall (Art Director)

Jauretsi (Filmmaker)

(Jimy Seitang of the Psychic Ills)

James Wilson (creator of the blog SECRET FORTS)

One final thought. My favorite piece in the collection are the longjohns which I find super versatile — be it with cinched belt and heels, or the more casual look rocked with ballet flats or sneakers.

For sales or press questions, contact mail@danaleenewyork.com. To view Dana’s online journals or previous collections, go to DanaLeeNewYork.com